Starting on the Kirtle

So I decided to not use the fabric I dyed for my freind, the dye turn out blotchy, and I was not happy with how much it shrunk. So I will use it to make a camp kirtle for myself. While I was at the fabric store today there was a cotton blend broadcloth on sale for less than 3$ per yard. I picked up a nice golden yellow to line the inside of the gown, along with some black for kirtle trim and a partlet. I also picked up 4 yards of a deep blue color (not quite navy).

I double checked my friend's measurements with her teen daughter (yes her daughter is in on the surprize, she is able to keep quite about it though.) And now I have the kirtle cut, and the lining, which will only be lining the upper part (mid thigh and up) and is from scrap cotton material.

This kirtle has a square neck line in the front and a back v common to a few transition gowns. It does not have a waist seam. Both the back and front have straite center seams, It is a seam my friend seems to prefer with all her underdress w/ bodices, and gives a more period appearance for this gown. It will be a front lacing gown, and I have folded the front seams under twice (covering raw edges) and pined it to form the lacing strip. There are 3 gores, one for each side, and one for the back. I choose to put no gore in the front because most of the images of these gowns have more fabric in the rear. There will be wide black trim at the hem and cuffs, and thiner trim around the neck.

I will not be finishing the seams, for a couple of reasons 1) Easier to adjust seams to fit better. 2) I don't have the time. for this reason I will also be using a machine to sew it. I would like to get the project completed by June 3rd, which is when the next event I am hoping to attend where we will both be at.

The back gore is long enough that I may extend the gore higher to help create pleats which is common in these gowns. This will also help make the kirtle easier to get into, but then a belt will be needed to keep the shape..... Not sure yet though. I am leaning to creating a waist seam and pleats in back on the gown though.