This was my second attempt at a fitted kirtle. It is front laced with placket, and has lacing on the sleaves. It is a linen cotton mix fabric. It has no trim and has a modest neckline. It has hand done eyelets on the front bodice, and grommets on the sleaves. The front with the eyelets has been lined with several layers of cotton muslin to prevent puckering of the dress when laced. It has gussets under the arms, and has a curved front seam. http://www.cottesimple.com/fem_silhouette/comparison/comparison.html (for comparison of curved vs straight seams)
Detail of Shepard's dance, MS Lat.873.f21. French, late 15th century, Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris. Source: A Medieval
I use this as my working kirtle. It is easier to get on and off since it laces up the front, it is also a bit shorter than I would have liked it is about an inch off the ground, but I was working with limited fabric. I also ended up bustier soon after I made it so the lacing is further apart, defently not court garb. This kirtle is very comfy though. My husband likes it because it shows off my curves.
Things I had to fix: I ripped out the grommets that were in the bodice, lined it with several layers of muslin, pieced scrap purple fabric to cover the holes left by the grommets and hand did the eyelets. This stops eyelets from popping out, also smooths the fabric and prevents puckering of the fabric.
Is It period??? Well, cotton was not a common fabric, the kirtle is a bit short, the bodice gaps a bit much, and has extra lining on the bodice. It does however passes the 10 foot rule no problems once I replace the white lacing.
If I could do it all over again I would not use any grommets, line the whole top of the bodice, add an inch or two to the bottom lenght, and not get bustier after it was made. It also shrunk when I washed it, so I will make sure I prewash the fabric at least twice in hot water. This is the kirtle I prefer to where, of the ones I have. This kirtle is very comfy. My husband likes it because it shows off my curves. (Purple is also my favorite color) although it is becoming stained, so If I where it to court, I through on an over dress. I have plans to make another fitted kirlte or three like this one.