First a note on terms I use. I consider a kirtle to be a dress that can be worn alone or under another dress, I consider a cote to be a dress that can't be worn alone (must have a kirtle underneath) short for surcote. An underdress or smock I consider to be underwear, worn underneath a kirtle, but not seen. I consider a Gothic Fitted Dress (GFD) to be a garment that is fitted thru the upper body, flaring at the hips to form a wide skirt, and can be either a kirtle or an overdress. Much of the garb I wear would be considered a GFD, hence the use of kirtle and cote to distingish the type of garb (or layer) I am describing. Here is a pdf that helps understand the layers and debate about the "cotehardie" http://www.cottesimple.com/love_layers/final_love_layers.pdf
This is my first attempt at a fitted cote, or over dress. I am not sure the type of fabric it is made of, although I have heard it called changable taftita. I should of paid more attention to what type of fabric I was buying, But it was so beautiful. The fabric is blue/brown brocade and changes with the light, it is woven with silver. It is synthetic. The pattern is what I believe is large repeating pomagrante. The cote just touches the ground, had small round silver buttons only down the front (well half way down the front currently) the cote is fitted. The weird buldges around the waist is due to the girdle I was using as a belt underneath. ( This was a layer I was asked to don quickly so someone could see how it looked.) It is machince stitched, but the button holes are hand sewn.
I like how this garment turned out. I like the blue silver combo. I do have an issue with the top button poping out of the button hole, when I move certain ways, so there is to much strain on the fabric there. After working with natural fabrics that give, I forgot that snythetics don't. Also this was on of the garments I made before I got bustier. The buttons only go halfway down the front, and honestly It will stay that way. I dont have any more buttons that match, don't want to spend any more on them, and I sort of like it the way it is. I might use a hem stich to close it to the hem though.... project for the future.
If I could do it all over again I would make a wider curved neck line instead of a v neck. I would leave more room about the bust, and I might take the waist in a bit more.
What is period about this garb? The pattern woven into the fabric is period, even if the fabric is not. The buttons and hand sewn button holes are period, the cut and fit of the garment are period except the V neck.
What is not period about it? The synthetic fabric, the machine stitching, the v neck, the front seam is open all the way down and not buttoned all the way down.