So I decided to not use the fabric I dyed for my freind, the dye turn out blotchy, and I was not happy with how much it shrunk. So I will use it to make a camp kirtle for myself. While I was at the fabric store today there was a cotton blend broadcloth on sale for less than 3$ per yard. I picked up a nice golden yellow to line the inside of the gown, along with some black for kirtle trim and a partlet. I also picked up 4 yards of a deep blue color (not quite navy).
I double checked my friend's measurements with her teen daughter (yes her daughter is in on the surprize, she is able to keep quite about it though.) And now I have the kirtle cut, and the lining, which will only be lining the upper part (mid thigh and up) and is from scrap cotton material.